Added: Amita Darrow - Date: 22.02.2022 12:46 - Views: 45806 - Clicks: 7159
Kate Kelleghan le the 5. Kelleghan and Becca Droz hold the women's current speed record ofset on September 26, The pair have been whittling their time down this past summer, moving increasingly quickly as they made their twenty-ninth and forty-fourth ascents of the route, respectively. Seven years later, Jim Erickson and Duncan Ferguson made the first free ascent of the iconic Colorado climb. Inthe Colorado climbers Stefan Griebel and Jason Wells broke an hour with a bridge-to-bridge ascent of 49 minutes.
The speedy climbers began a competition with Brad Gobright and Scott Bennett, sharing tactics on how to climb faster. With the friendly rivalry, Griebel and Wells dropped their time to 24 minutes and 29 seconds. Throughout their efforts, Droz and Kelleghan have refined their rack to an foot rope, 21 pieces of pro comprising cams, draws, and slingsand three Mini Traxions.
They also rely on knowledge of where each climber is on the route to help protect them as they simul-climb, minimizing risk by only having a few sections of climbing with fewer than four pieces between them. The Naked Edge also has fixed gear, including bolts, pitons, and bolted belays, that they clip. After a sunrise warmup lap on the route, the pair starts by running from the bridge to the base of Redgarden in roughly two minutes. There, they free-solo Anthill Direct 5. Kelleghan, who leaves the bridge with the Mini Traxions pre-rigged see below and a right-side-heavy rack on her harness because she mostly places off her left arm, then le the entire route.
The pair decided that because Kelleghan places less gear and is slower on the descent, she should lead the entire route. In the final hand crack, Kelleghan places a third Mini Traxion on a hand-sized cam, and then it comes to Droz to catch up to Kelleghan.
Droz sprints to the top laden with the rack. When she summits, she unties, while Kelleghan, who has already started the descent, coils the rope while descending. On their record-setting climb, they summitted in approximately 28 minutes.
When both climbers tag the bridge, the clock stops. Historically, speed climbing has been a male-dominated arena, though women have been quickly closing the gap. On the 3,foot Nose of El Capitan, the time gap is wider. Droz noted that Madaleine Sorkin had ly been the only woman to have led the Naked Edge in a single pitch before she Droz started climbing the route with Kelleghan. The leap from pitching it out, to climbing it in two pitches, to climbing it in a single pitch proved ificant for Droz—perhaps as substantial as setting the speed record in part because she and Kelleghan currently have no other female competition for the record.
Whether female times should be compared with male times is a difficult question, and moves into the controversial arena of first female ascents and how different genders compete with each other. At the bridge in Eldorado, after the women had already hustled up the route twice in a day, an Eldorado local approached them. Regina regularly runs through the state park, and had watched the pair climb the route from the road. As Regina demonstrated, more important than the times, the superlatives, or the details of the climb is the way they inspire.
There were times when we both left the bridge moving too fast to keep up the pace, so we learned to slow down to a more sustainable pace which could definitely be faster. The descent is definitely a place where we can still make up more time; we are not very speedy at but- sliding down the slabs. James Lucas is the author of the popular Peaches Preaches column and the new Yosemite Bouldering guidebook. He is currently based out of Boulder, Colorado, where he works as a freelance writer and photographer. This article is free.
Please the Climbing team today. Get the latest climbing news, videos, tips, and more every Thursday. Photo: James Lucas.
Climbing: What was the impetus for going for the record—when and how did the idea come to be? Kate Kelleghan: We started running speedy laps together as I was honing down my time with [my friend] Eddie. I wanted Becca to get speedy with me because I loved the idea of an all-female team going for a record. I persuaded her to start linking pitches and taking out pieces here or there.
Becca Droz: Kate got psyched on dialing in the Naked Edge with the goal of climbing it in a pitch. She convinced me to start climbing it with that goal in mind. Climbing: What were some of your earlier times like—a range, roughly—and what did you realize needed to happen to begin honing your times down?
Kelleghan: We were averaging around in our earlier laps, most of which we were still splitting into two pitches. The first time going in one pitch for real speed, we did 50 minutes. We have climbed the Edge 11 times total together, ever. We knew we needed to start sprinting harder through the beginning and descending more efficiently. We traded our [approach shoe] shoelaces for speed laces, started from the bridge running in our climbing shoes, and worked out beta on certain pitches.
Becca slips into a locker on a knot instead of tying in to save time.
The best beta of all, though, was the double lap. Doing a warm-up lap and then an actual speed lap cut off almost 10 minutes from when we were doing single laps.
Droz: For a while, we were climbing the Edge in two pitches in around Kate finally led it in a pitch and inspired me to do the same during my 31st birthday challenge in Eldo with the Sensei [Justen Sjong].
We started to dwindle our time with other partners first, and then came together to work on our specific team strategy. We had a sub-hour goal, then sub, then sub, and sub was sort of a stretch goal we were aiming towards. Honing the time has a lot to do with cutting obvious time on the approach and descent. The double lap changed everything in terms of honing the time down, so I guess we needed cool enough temps to have time for two laps.
On our first double-lap attempt, we cut our PR of 46 minutes down to 39! Climbing: What, at a glance, is the most difficult part of this endeavor? The running? The climbing? The descent? And why? Kelleghan: The most difficult part in my opinion is sprinting through the approach hill and carrying that momentum into the approach pitches. I just hate sprinting…because I want to maintain percent control over the parts we are free-soloing, so you have to keep your mind, breath, and body in check.
Climbing: What do you hope other climbers—men and women alike—take away from your experience and from the record? Kelleghan: In a broad sense, I hope that other climbers will be inspired to find fun ways to push themselves out on the rock. That could be a local backyard challenge, like the Naked Edge is for us, or some sort of linkup goal, a speedy goal or something totally random, something that gets you psyched and excited to be outside doing what you love.
The climbing community is full of fun people who all have a unique perspective and set of skills. With the right people, you can make really fun goals come to life in a creative way. While Becca and I have a lot of things in common, we also had to figure out how to navigate the things that we see differently, and that has made for a stronger, more open partnership in the long-term.
We know how to go about tackling our differences on bigger future goals now. We also hope we can inspire other ladies to try things that might have ly been considered uncharacteristic for women. Push boundaries, try hard, figure out logistics together, train together, and make it fun!
Droz: I hope people see this and recognize the power in finding partnerships that inspire them to feed on the team energy and explore what their specific partnership can accomplish. Every team has different strengths and dynamics. Climbing Newsletter Get the latest climbing news, videos, tips, and more every Thursday.Naked women in Boulder
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